Istanbul: Next Two Days

It was May Day (Labor Day) on Tuesday and the metro was closed, the street in front of the hotel was closed, thousands of police officers were out, and many more protesters were marching to Taksim Square.  We decided it was a great time to get out of the city so we set sail to Büyükada, the largest of the nine Princes' Islands.

These islands don't allow motorized vehicles on them so you either take a horse carriage ride (called phaeton), walk or rent bikes.

We decided to rent bikes but they were going FAST so we had to take what we could get... and Michael got this one.  It was a good purse and lunch holder!

The island was hilly and worth it.  Gorgeous views, grazing horses (with their foals), and one crazy dilapidated mansion that we took about a dozen photos of... it was pretty cool.

We got back to the city just in time to have a delicious seafood dinner at sunset on the Galata Bridge.

It would have been perfect, except the metros were still not running and we had to walk uphill (a very steep hill) to our hotel in Taksim Square.  Fortunately, we found Galata Tower on our way!

Exhausted and happy, we got back safe and slept very well last night!  And it's good we got some sleep because we walked over 10 miles today while discovering a little area called Fatih a little outside the main city area.

Chora Church is SUPER hard to find.  We took 3 metros and walked at least a mile trying to find the darn thing just to find out it was closed on Wednesdays!  Go figure.  But we did have lunch at the little cafe there... and met this guy who was determined to eat Michael's kabaps!

The cats!  Oh my goodness.  But after we finished our lunch, we started the walking tour along the Theodosian Wall from the 5th century.  The stairs were not up to code...

But the views were breathtaking!

We walked along the wall in the little town and peeked into a Greek church, some places that used to be synagogues,  some places the used to be churches, and some small mosques (including one by Sinan, the famed Turkish architect).  It was very residential and full of kids asking us our names, asking for money, and playing soccer down the street as we were walking.  Very quaint.  But so quaint that we decided not to walk all the way back to the metro and realized that the ferry no longer picks up at the dock near us.  So we had a lovely walk along the water all the way back into the city.

After dinner, we decided to check out this church that's near our hotel!  Gorgeous!

Sant'Antonio di Padova was a lovely find!  You can barely see it, but the Jesus above the alter was really neat!  And the twisted Jesus sculpture outside the church was even neater!

After checking that out, we decided that we had enough time to go to the Pera Museum.  They had a fantastic Goya exhibit on the top 3 floors but the first two floors were dedicated to art and artifacts of Istanbul.  Gorgeous space and wonderfully thought-out exhibit.

The first four and a half days have been fantastic.  We're really looking forward to the next four and a half days!

Istanbul: First Two Days

We arrived Saturday evening to find this gorgeous sunset welcoming us to Istanbul after a long trip.  Turkish Airlines was great - left on time, arrived on time, and they still have the "old fashioned" service of feeding you constantly (and free alcohol to help Michael get a little bit of sleep).

But I need to mention the driving.  This photo was taken only after I let go of the death grip on my seat.

We'll just say Michael tipped him a little extra for getting us to the hotel in one piece.  It seems like traffic laws (like one-way streets, no U-turns, and pedestrians having the right of way) are more of a suggestion in Istanbul.

DAY 1: Sultanahmet (Old City)
First we went to Topkapi Palace.  We would have to share like 20 photos to just scratch the surface of the beautiful grounds, the architecture, the Imperial treasures, and the tiles.  Here's just one beautiful ceiling... and each ceiling was different in every room (NOTE: the little notch in the ceiling points to Mecca).

It was a beautiful morning so we sat on the patio drinking Turkish coffee over-looking the Bosphorus (Europe on the left side, Asia on the right side).

And this little guy came to say hello.

Cats. Are. Everywhere!  (And dogs too... but there are A LOT of cats all over the city!)

After we said goodbye to our feline friend, we walked out the gates of Topkapi and down the street to the Blue Mosque.

Honestly cannot capture the impressiveness of the Blue Mosque with our little camera.  Gorgeous.

Then we headed off to The Basilica Cisterns under the city.  Wow.  This is the reason the Old City cannot  have an underground subway system... there is literally history under your feet!

Afterwards, we had a delicious lunch and Michael discovered his favorite kabab: yoğurtlu iskerden kebap.  The yogurt here... oh my goodness... so delicious.

Last but not least, now to my favorite place of the day: Hagia Sophia.  Again, pictures cannot do it justice.  It's huge and filled with mosaics, paintings, and more architectural detail than you can imagine... AND it was complete in the 6th century!  Crazy.

We will be back on Thursday for our Turkish baths at Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı.  Michael is really looking forward to this... I'm not sure what to expect (or how naked I'm going to have to get) so I'm a little anxious.  I'm sure it will be awesome.  They just restored the entire place and the architecture is supposed to be gorgeous (did I mention Michael's super excited to check it out?).

DAY 2: Food Tour
Julide has been our tour guide since we've gotten here and has been an ENORMOUS help.  Everyone we've talked to said that not knowing Turkish isn't an issue in Istanbul.  Michael and I have found it to be a little bit of an issue (especially when speaking to the waiters and making reservations) so Julide has been well worth it!

So she starts off our Foodie tour at Köşkeroğlu, which is known for its Katmer (ground pistachios sandwiched between one or two sheets of phyllo - like flat baklava!) and we also ordered Sucuk (walnuts on a string dipped in raisin paste) because it looked weird.  Both were good, but the Katmer was beyond delicious!  Perfect with Turkish tea, of course.

Then we went to the Spice Market and purchased (and sampled or smelled) Turkish delights, teas, spices and dried fruit.  I'm not even going to tell you how many Turkish Lira we spent on food... and then we purchased this beautiful hand-painted, double fired plate.

(Note: I think the highlight of Michael's trip to the Spice Market was actually seeing all the Audi's lined up for the filming of the new James Bond next door at the Yeni Cami (New Mosque)... and cringing at the dents in the cars too)

After spending too much money, we had a fantastic lunch at Hamdi overlooking EVERYTHING!

We enjoyed our lunch so much, we had to run to catch the Bosphorus cruise!  Good thing we made it a few minutes before it pulled out.  A gorgeous day to be on the water!

Julide pointed out all the historic buildings and the history of the development along the river.  So much HISTORY!  It was wonderful.

Last stop was Karaköy on the Asain side, where we strolled through the markets, split a big almond cookie and had tea before we headed back to the European side.

Here's the view of Maiden Tower in front of the Asian side from the ferry.  Awesome couple of days but we sure are tired.  Goodnight!

Istanbul (Not Constantinople)

We leave on FRIDAY and I'm writing this blog post instead of packing.  I like to live on the edge!

Last year, when we started planning this trip, I knew little about Istanbul.  All I knew was that my dear friend Sania was going to bring in her 3rd decade with a fantastic birthday party in Istanbul and we were not going to miss it!

First I started pinning images of Istanbul on Pinterest.  Looks pretty cool.  Then I started reading several books on this AMAZING city.  Then I started adding articles to our Tumblr.  And then I started talking to friends (and friends of friends) that had been on vacation there and EVERYONE I've talked to has just fallen in love with this modern, ancient and enchanting city!

I had to put together a google map to keep it all straight.

 

View Istanbul 2012 in a larger map

We hope the wi-fi at the hotel is good and we can blog about our trip in real time, like we did in Paris.  We also hope to do a lot of walking and a lot of eating, like we did in Paris!  There's also a lot of history and architecture and markets... and I'm sure you can probably tell the theme of all our vacations... eating, walking, and architecture... aaaah!  Can't wait!

Vinegar-Braised Chicken with Leeks and Peas

Delicious and quick... this is our kind of dish!  We are rolling this recipe into our mid-week dinner rotation!

INGREDIENTS
8 whole chicken legs
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 large leeks, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar
One 10-ounce package frozen baby peas, thawed
2 tablespoons chopped tarragon
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/2 cup crème fraîche

Preheat the oven to 425° and position a rack in the upper third. Turn the chicken legs skin side down on a work surface and cut halfway through the joint. Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper.

In each of 2 large nonstick skillets, heat half of the butter and oil. Add the chicken, skin side up, and cook over high heat until browned, 5 minutes. Turn and cook the chicken for 1 minute. Pile all of the chicken into one skillet.

In the other skillet, cook the leeks over high heat until just beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and vinegar and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into a medium roasting pan.

Set the chicken on the leeks, skin side up; roast for about 25 minutes, until it is cooked through. Turn on the broiler and broil for about 2 minutes, until the skin is golden and crisp. Transfer the chicken to a platter.

Place the roasting pan over a burner and boil over high heat until the liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add the peas, herbs and crème fraîche and simmer until the sauce is hot and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.

Blistered Snap Peas with Mint

DELICIOUS!  And just in time for summer meals!

Thanks, again, Food & Wine!  And thanks AGAIN to the wonderful (and handsome) chef!

INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon pure olive oil
2 pounds sugar snap peas, ends trimmed and strings discarded
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon olive oil (see Note)
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
1/4 cup mint leaves, torn

Preheat the oven to 500°. Set a large, ovenproof skillet over high heat until very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the pure olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the snap peas, toss a few times and transfer the skillet to the oven. Cook for 2 minutes, then carefully toss the peas a few times. Return the skillet to the oven and cook for 2 minutes longer, until the peas are crisp-tender. Toss the peas with the lemon oil and season with salt. Transfer to a serving bowl. Scatter the mint on top and serve.

NOTES: Olive oil pressed or infused with lemon is available at most supermarkets and specialty food stores.

Roasted Green-Bean and Potato Salad with Soppressata and Mozzarella

Ever thought about roasting green beans?  Me neither... until this recipe... of course, in Food & Wine.

We served this as a side dish, but this is definitely hearty enough to be a meal by itself.  I have a feeling we'll be making this easy and quick recipe all spring and into the summer.  Delish!

INGREDIENTS
2 pounds small new potatoes
1 pound green beans
7 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 pound sliced soppressata or hard salami, cut into quarters
1/2 pound salted fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, at room temperature
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Heat the oven to 450°. On a baking sheet, toss the potatoes with the green beans, 3 1/2 tablespoons of the oil, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and the dried thyme, if using. Roast in the center of the oven for 20 minutes. Turn the potatoes and beans with a spatula and then sprinkle with the fresh thyme, if using. Roast until the vegetables are golden and tender, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl.

Add the remaining 4 tablespoons oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt, the soppressata, mozzarella, parsley, and pepper to the bowl and toss. Add the lemon juice and toss again. Let stand for 5 minutes to absorb the dressing before serving.

Variations:
• Line the plates with thin slices of prosciutto and top with the salad.
• Add a roasted, peeled, seeded, and sliced red bell pepper.
• Add a quarter cup of halved and pitted black olives.

Lemon Tea Cookies for Easter

Happy Easter!

This year we're celebrating Easter at Aunt Mary Alice, Uncle Sam and Cousin Karen's house down in Richmond!  Although it's a 2.5 hour drive down, there is just something special about having a home-cooked Easter dinner surrounded by family.

I decided to make lemon tea cookies for dessert... I guess it just sounded Eastery to me... and they turned out super cute and delicious!

INGREDIENTS
2/3 cup butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Place butter in the bowl of an electric mixer; cream until smooth. Add lemon zest and continue mixing until blended. Add granulated sugar and mix until smooth, about 2 minutes longer. Add egg and continue to beat until a lemon colored batter forms. Blend in vanilla extract. Slowly add 2 cups of flour, mixing until dough pulls away from sides of bowl and a ball forms. Remove dough, flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Flour work surface and rolling pin with some reserved flour. Roll dough into a 1/4-inch sheet. Using a 2-inch cookie cutter (or whatever shape you want... I used a flower cookie cutter for Easter!), cut cookies and transfer to an ungreased cookie sheet, spacing them 3/4-inch apart. Gather up unused scraps and re-roll until no dough remains.

Bake cookies until edges are a pale golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer to a rack to cool. Let stand for 30 minutes. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Store in airtight containers for up to a week.

Yield: 48 cookies.

M+M On The Web



Hello!  Sorry our posts have been a little sporadic lately.  Between having friends in town, "cramming" for our trip to Istanbul this month, and keeping up our social lives... our M+M Blog has been neglected lately.

Fortunately, we're supplementing this blog with a few other online tools to keep our interests organized and to share them with you (if you're at all interested).

First stop: Flavors.me
This compiles posts from this blog, my linked in profile, our Instagram photo feed, my goodreads profile, and our Picassa photo album (which I really need to update since our photo albums on me.com have gone the way of the Dodo bird.)

Next stop: Pinterest
Beware: Pinterest is addicting!  It doesn't look like much at first, but then you get the hang of it and then you download the app on your phone... and now there's no turning back.

Last stop: Tumblr

We're trying to post a photo a day (it's turning out to be more like 5ish photos per week) to make it like a photo diary, but Tumblr is also a great tool to organize links!  We re-post links on museum exhibits we're interested in going to, links to articles and blogs in Istanbul, and random stuff we find on our Tumblr dashboard that strikes our fancy.

We will continue to post our favorite recipes and personal updates on this blog for our friends and family, but we just wanted to let you know where else you can find us on the web.

Mushroom and Goat Cheese Tortas + Aina!

It's been about 3 years since I visited Aina in Oslo and she introduced us to one of our first go-to vegetarian recipes - vegetable casserole with herb dumplings!

Now it was her turn to come visit DC and for us to share one of our new vegetarian recipes from Food & Wine, of course.  Goes perfect with homemade rosemary bread too!

INGREDIENTS
2 large heads of garlic, cloves peeled and lightly smashed
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
Salt
1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps thinly sliced
1/2 pound oyster mushrooms, stems discarded and caps thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
6 bolillo rolls or other crusty rolls, split
3 cups packed arugula leaves
1 cup prepared tomato salsa
1/2 pound soft goat cheese

Preheat the oven to 325°. Put the garlic in a small, deep baking dish and toss with the olive oil, lime juice and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover and bake for about 30 minutes, until the garlic is soft and golden.

Increase the oven temperature to 400°. Combine all of the mushrooms in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and toss with the roasted garlic and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover with foil and bake for 10 minutes. Uncover and bake for about 35 minutes longer, until the mushrooms are tender and golden. Stir in the chopped cilantro.

Scrape some of the bread out of the center of the rolls and set the rolls on a large baking sheet, cut sides up. Spread the mushrooms over the rolls and bake for about 5 minutes to crisp the rolls. Spread the arugula and salsa on one half of the rolls and the goat cheese on the other half. Close the sandwiches and bake for about 5 minutes, until hot and crisp. Cut the sandwiches in half and serve.

MAKE AHEAD: The cooked mushrooms can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently.

AND AINA!!!!

We had to stop by the Library of Congress since we both worked at the library at UNC!

And the weather was PERFECT to catch the last of the Cherry Blossoms.

Gorgeous...

...and so much fun to have Aina around.

Guess it's our turn to visit her in Norway next!  It's a rough life...

Spring in DC with M-C + Pat

Our long weekend with Ming-Cee and Patrick was too short, a little exhausting and absolutely WONDERFUL!  It's been about five years since they've come visit but we hope it won't be another five years until they come again.

As you can see, we just had the most perfect weather this weekend!  The tulips and cherry blossoms were in bloom in the Bishop's Garden at the National Cathedral...

The sun was shining at the National Arboretum...

The fish were smiling at the Arboretum too...

And most importantly, we were all smiling at the Arboretum...

Then Ming-Cee and Patrick struck a pose with the Chinese panda near the Spanish steps...

And of course we couldn't let them go without seeing the Library of Congress...

Cherry Blossoms hit their peak this weekend... two weeks ahead of schedule...

And lastly, it's a crime to walk around the tidal basin without stopping by the frequently-missed FDR memorial.

Ming-Cee and Patrick are also frequently missed by us!  Can't wait until we see them again soon.

The Last Two Hunger Games Books

Wow.

Since last year I've been debating reading the second and third books from the Hunger Games after I read the first one.

Honestly, the whole premise of kids killing each other is uncomfortable and emotional.  And I heard from a couple people that the second and third books weren't as good as the first one.  But Michael was interested in reading them and got the trilogy for Christmas so I picked up the second book a couple weeks ago.

Wow.

Could not put them down!

And I LOVED them so much more than the first one, which really surprised me!

The first one just seemed a little more focused on the violence of the games, but the second and third one focused more on the relationships between the characters.

These books were fantastic and I they are definitely 10 out of 10.

And Michael and I will probably watch the movie (in the theater!) when it comes out too...

...after all, it was filmed in Asheville!

In the Garden of Beasts

Super interesting history book!

I know some of you are probably thinking what I thought when I saw this book: Oh my goodness... another book on WWII?  No thanks.

But our book club picked it and Erik Larson wrote one of Michael's all-time favorite books (The Devil in the White City) so I thought I'd give it a shot.

It was very interesting from a historical perspective.  I've always wondered HOW no one could see that Hitler was killing all the Jews and HOW the U.S. could decide to stay out of it for so long.  Larson did a great job of giving you a glimpse into the social hierarchy, political dynamics and office politics of the time.

My favorite parts of the book focused on the U.S. Ambassador to Germany's daughter, Martha, and her scandalous love life!

If you're interested in WWII history and/or political history (which I really am not), this is a good book to pick up.  Personally, I give it a 6 out of 10 (even though it was good for a non-fiction book).